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Final 3 sit and go advice, Dr_Monkey, 7. Jul 2003 06:07
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I need some advice how to play when only 3 are left in a sit and go tournament. I usually play $5 sit and gos. The last 5 of 8 I have made it to the final 3. My problem is how to get to 1 or 2.

I know you have to be aggressive when there is only 3 and the blinds are high.

One game, with 3 left I noticed that if I wasn't in the pot, the remaining 2 players would not bet too often after the flop. Stack size was pretty equal between all of us. I started to raise in the SB only to see the BB fold. Sometimes I did it on the button or even BB. Most of the time I wasn't holding great cards. 10 5 suited. K 4 offsuited. If I got called I probably could have trouble after the flop. It worked out and I got 1st.

Last night I was in a sit and go, 3 left. Chip leader had about 4000, I probably had 500 more than 3rd guy. I sometimes let the other 2 battle, if I am not getting cards. The other 2 went at it and the chip leader lost a hand big time. So now I am low on chips. Now the new chip leader gets aggressive and raises everytime he is in BB. I still stay out of it. They go back and forth, exchanging chip leader status. Very frustrating.

How should I play once it is final 3 and I am not super low on chips?

What do you try to steal blinds with? Ax or Kx?

Is it good strategy to play any Ace or King?

If I raise preflop is it automatic to bet the flop?

What would you do in this situation:
Final 2. 250/500
Me: BB with K5s and 1500 in chips.
Raised 500 pre flop. (1 to 2 hands after 3rd dropped out)

I folded and then got eaten by the blinds. Think I should have seen the flop.
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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, stdioh, 7. Jul 2003 06:43
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When you are 3-handed, A6 is a much better holding than KT. When you see a flop, think of it being like the top card is not there. So if you have Q8 and the flop is KQ7 play it almost like you would play if the flop was Q72 in a full game.

It is hard to describe 3-handed play in a nutshell, but a lot of it comes down to exploiting a player's style and knowing how to play depending on opponents' styles and stack sizes. Mostly, it just takes practice.
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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Dr_Monkey, 7. Jul 2003 07:00
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So if you see a player always raising in the BB and you are on the button, how would you play it?

He would raise from the SB to steal my BB also.

You you wait until you got an Ax and raise first?

I saw this action to many times:
I fold on button.
SB calls.
BB raises.
Flop
SB Checks
BB bets.
SB Folds.

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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Paul Stine, 7. Jul 2003 08:05
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on 7. Jul 2003 07:00 Dr_Monkey wrote:
> So if you see a player always raising in the BB and you are on the button, how would you
> play it?
>
> He would raise from the SB to steal my BB also.
>
> You you wait until you got an Ax and raise first?
>
> I saw this action to many times:
> I fold on button.
> SB calls.
> BB raises.
> Flop
> SB Checks
> BB bets.
> SB Folds.
>
>

First, if these are $5+$1 sit and go's you need to move up to at least $10+$1 to avoid that 20% gouge on the juice. If they are $5+$0.50 then you are paying 10% which is more the norm.

Here is a tactic that is somewhat common among more experienced players, but generally not seen much among the players at the level you are talking about. This applies not only to short handed play, but to full table play as well. The described play works much better at NL and PL than limit.

Say a player is repeatedly raising in late position to steal your blind. A common play is to just flat call the raise (which should stop the pre-flop action and put you heads up with the raiser) and then bet the flop regardless of what comes out.

This is a move that takes heart and won't always succeed (even someone on a steal can hit a flop), but is successful enough to merit using.

If it doesn't work, hey, it didn't work. You are really worse off than if you had continued to let that player steal your blinds.

Paul Stine
College Station, TX

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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Dr_Monkey, 7. Jul 2003 08:43
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I was thinking of moving up to $10+1. I actually tried that this weekend. I had built my backroll up to $82 from a free bonus of $45. Figured I was doing well. Only played $5+1 to get to $82. I played 2 $10+1 tournaments and didn't get the money. Argueably, I went out because I made mistakes that I shouldn't have made. I know 2 tourneys isn't a good judge, but I am worried that the players might be alot better than the $5 type.

So back to $60 bankroll and $5+1. Thinking I am not ready for $10+1. I lose the first, but as of last night, my bankroll is $92, all from $5+1.

Now I wonder, what I would be sitting on if I stuck with $10+1. Is there a difference in level of play at $10+1 compared to $5+1? I think of myself as a smart tourney player. I play strong cards and get the most out of the pot when I hold a winning hand. It's common for me to watch the other players play most of the hands. When I do play, I usually win the pot.

I'll have to try the call and bet after flop tactic. Guess your heart drops when they call on the flop? Especially if you don't hit the flop.
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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Jav, 7. Jul 2003 10:06
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It kind of depends on where you are playing. So far on PartyPoker I haven't noticed a difference between the $10 and $30 tourneys. When I play on PokerStars, I definately notice a change in players from the $5, $10, $20, and $30 tourneys. (It's also much harder to place in a 18 person tourney than it is in a 9 or 10 person tourney, obviously).

I would say give it a try if you feel like you could handle it if you lost. Otherwise build up your bankroll a bit more then give it a try.

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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Mike812, 7. Jul 2003 10:37
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Dr Monkey I was in the same boat as you. I started playing 0.50/1.00 games and was losing to people willing to pay 0.50 to see the flop, turn, etc. So I started to play tournament games, I played $5, $10, and $30 on partypoker.com and I have done very well in the $10 and $30 games. People in the $5 games are the same as the people in the 0.50/1.00 games, and they will bet anything and everything. In order to succeed in the higher games, I play real tight in the first 3 or 4 rounds unless I have a premium hand. There will always be people that will go all-in or bet really high in the first couple of rounds. I usually let them battle it out, and I really start to play inthe later rounds. By the time I start playing hands, half of the table would have been eliminated. And that is if I didnt get any good hands/flops before that.

www.pokeranon.com
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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Paul Stine, 7. Jul 2003 10:48
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on 7. Jul 2003 08:43 Dr_Monkey wrote:
> I was thinking of moving up to $10+1. I actually tried that this weekend. I had built my backroll
> up to $82 from a free bonus of $45. Figured I was doing well. Only played $5+1 to get to $82. I
> played 2 $10+1 tournaments and didn't get the money. Argueably, I went out because I made mistakes
> that I shouldn't have made. I know 2 tourneys isn't a good judge, but I am worried that the players
> might be alot better than the $5 type.
>
> So back to $60 bankroll and $5+1. Thinking I am not ready for $10+1. I lose the first, but as of
> last night, my bankroll is $92, all from $5+1.
>
> Now I wonder, what I would be sitting on if I stuck with $10+1. Is there a difference in level of
> play at $10+1 compared to $5+1? I think of myself as a smart tourney player. I play strong cards
> and get the most out of the pot when I hold a winning hand. It's common for me to watch the other
> players play most of the hands. When I do play, I usually win the pot.
>
> I'll have to try the call and bet after flop tactic. Guess your heart drops when they call on the
> flop? Especially if you don't hit the flop.

Like I said, this move isn't going to work in a limit tournament; it is just *way* to easy for them to call you. In a no limit tournament you will probably want to go ahead and blast it all in on the flop. Now, if you have 2000 in chips and the blinds are 50/100 you won't move in, but you want to make a bet that is big enough to discourage a call. That means a pot size or pot plus a half sized bet.

Say you are down to three persons, as you described. You are last in chips. What is the worst that can happen? You lose and take 3rd place money. What is the best that can happen? You pick up this pot and send a message to the bully that you won't be trifled with and use the momentum of winning this pot to win another.

As the old saying goes, "The bettor be, the caller never." On the surface of it, the move I described seems to fly in the face of that advise. On closer examination we can see that it is well in-line with the advise. The call on the flop is merely cocking the trigger for the bet we will be blasting in on the flop. But if you lose heart and can't pull the trigger it will never work.

Personally, I don't like to get tied up in multi-way pots; too many ways to get submarined by some dog-fish hand. In fact, I try to encourage the other players to mix it up. I prefer to take them on one at a time, heads-up.

Paul Stine
College Station, TX
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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, stdioh, 7. Jul 2003 10:58
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If the player is grossly overagressing, you need to play only very strong hands and trap with them. Make big reraises. So you get AQ let him raise you and then push back a big overraise. This is one of the best ways to cool off and overzealous opponent.
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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, palman, 7. Jul 2003 15:06
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1st: if you're playing at party... I know you said that you didnt think you had the skill to win at 10+1, and are playing at 5+1. You may have lost 2 at 10, but I seriously doubt the skill is any better. I play 30 at party all the time, and dropped down to 10 once just to see what it was like, and it was absurd. Now granted your banroll may not be able to supplement it, but get another 50 bucks and I think it should.... since even with a bad streak... over 10 tournaments you probably only lose 2 buy-ins.


Final 3.... I've had awful luck with it lately, a lot of 3rds, but I'm hoping thats just luck (when one calls you all in with 102 s against my AQ and beats me twice with CALLING crap like that, I assume its luck)


But basically the biggest thing about the final 3 is this.... one move will stay with the player the rest of the time.

Limp in with a big hand from the SB and once it gets showed... you should be able to limp with most hands the rest of the time, since people will fear it.

If you're the BB and the SB raises you, and you throw all in, at least for the next couple hands he will be more cautious.

Last and not least... a lot of it is luck. My thoughts are just be patient.

When the final 2 reach, with the blinds too high, it almost doesnt matter what the chipstacks are. 5,000 chips to 3,000 chips isn't much of an advantage. Its a crapshoot. So try not to gamble when not needed. Don't look for marginal advantages, look for huge ones.

One key could be really somewhat passive and just watch the others betting styles at first (assuming blinds arent TOO high) in their pots against eachother, so you get free information.


The biggest key for me is, there is no set "strategy" If you get caught bluffing with a bad hand.... almost every strong hand you play will get action. If you only show strong hands, when people go over the top of you you can assume they have the goods. Think of your table image, and don't act too fast. take 10 seconds before every decision. I fall into the trap of acting too quick.


I've tried to analyze my play and what I come up with is this..... I make a bet with a marginal hand and it works, I think I'm a genius. I make one and get burned on it, I criticize myself for a bad play. Which inevitably leads me to the conclusion its a crapshoot, especially with the talent of the players you are playing with.

Some may be god awful , and some may be incredible, but most are just average at it.

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Re: Final 3 sit and go advice, Jav, 7. Jul 2003 16:21
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You are correct about 3000 vs 5000 not making much of a difference. What it really means, is the 5000 guy only needs one hand to win, while the 3000 guy needs two hands to win.

Over the long run, I think it is far more profitable to be aggressive in this situatino than it is to be passive. You can't afford to wait for Group 1 and Group 2 hands, or you will have lost all your money. Likewise, if you get beat by one of these hands then that's just the way it goes, you can't play afraid of the other guy having A-A. You pretty much need to throw away total crap, and play anything ok aggressively unless you know you are beat.
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