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Server Time: 3/19/2010 1:55:17 PM PACIFIC |
 Starting requirements for A-x suited, Big_Slick, 4. Jun 2003 09:41 | ||
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| Would like to know your thoughts on what your starting requirements are for A-x suited in different positions. Thanks. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, MozMan, 4. Jun 2003 09:52 | ||
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| For me, it depends a lot on the table. If I am playing at a very passive table with little fear of a raise after I limp in, I will often look at the flop from almost any position with any Axs. Similarly, if I know someone who is a crazy and will raise the blind with trash, I will loosen up with this too. (I know one such person at my casino, only raises or folds before the flop... I have called him down before with hands like this and won the showdown with A-high). More commonly, I will look for the undercard to be a face card in EP, maybe down to 8 or 7 in MP, and any in LP. -Moz "There is no spoon." | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, trwebb26, 4. Jun 2003 10:15 | ||
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| I like to play A-X suited in middle to late position with a lot of people in the pot. If I don't at least have the Ace pair or the 4-flush after the flop - I'll dump it. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, stdioh, 4. Jun 2003 11:06 | ||
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| This is a hand that is really dependant on table texture. Generally speaking, you only want to play it against lots of limpers since you have to play it for a flush. Therefore, against a loose passive table you can limp with it under the gun. If you're playing against a tight agressive table, then you can only limp with it in late position with lots of limpers behind you (at least 3, I would say) or you could raise it in late position on a steal/deception play. In that you will, at this tight agressive table, be able to fold off AT, AJ, and probably AQ holdings with your preflop raise. Generally speaking, I only play in loose passive games, and thus I can usually play AX suited in any position. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, noiseboy, 4. Jun 2003 11:16 | ||
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| I should've read your post before I put in mine. I said almost the exact same thing you did. Oh well, reinforcement is always good. I read several poker books that say a lot of the same things in different ways, and find it helps me to remember. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, noiseboy, 4. Jun 2003 11:12 | ||
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| Basically, I don't play it in early, unless the game is very loose and not too aggressive, ie, most pots are played with 6+ players seeing a flop. I'll play it in middle or late position, usually only when there are 3 or more limpers, or if I'm first in from late position, it is a hand I like to take after the blinds with. Usually don't like to be in a raised pot, unless the raise comes from a loose raiser, and there have been at least some callers, and I don't think there will be more raising behind me. One last thing, if you've some of the people of the any-Ace mentality in your game, then A8s and A9s start looking a lot better, as you won't necessarily be outkicked if an A flops. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, noiseboy, 4. Jun 2003 11:14 | ||
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| Oh yeah, should mention that Axs goes way up in value heads-up and short handed where you aren't as worried about being outkicked, since there is less chance you are against another A. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, mkpoker, 4. Jun 2003 13:28 | ||
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| A2s or A3s is a *better* hand than A6 because of the (longshot) straight potential. With a pair of aces in a 10 handed game, you're likely to be outkicked with either A6 or A2. There's practically no difference between the two hands except for the possible straight. I'll play any Axs in middle or late position with at least 4-5 callers. But I'll almost always muck after the flop unless I hit a 4-flush, trips, or Aces up. I think it's a bad, bad move to go to the river with just pair of aces and an 8 or 9 kicker. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, stdioh, 4. Jun 2003 14:06 | ||
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| Depends on your opponents. If I'm up against some poor opponents, I'll often bet out with my AXs on the flop when I hit my ace. If I get raised by a good player I'll pitch it right there. If instead I only get back players calling along - bad players of the any ace variety, or the gutshot chaser variety, then depending on the turn card and my position I might bet it out again. If I don't improve on the river I won't bet out but I will call a bet from a frequent bluffer. Certainly, you need to be really in command of a table and have excellent reads to play your AX after hitting only an ace and most players would do much better to fold it than to play it, but it can be played after the flop profitable, if only marginally profitably, if you know your table well enough. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, noiseboy, 4. Jun 2003 14:12 | ||
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| in a full ring, you are absolutely correct that A2-5s is better because of the straight factor. However, short handed, you are mainly playing the hand for it's high card value, then A9s is much better than A2s, not only because it is less likely that someone else has an A, but also because a lot of the times pairing up the nine will win whereas pairing up the 2 won't. In a full ring, you are usually going to be out of there if all you flop is an A, and there's any action to you. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, SendMoney, 4. Jun 2003 19:24 | ||
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| If a game is fairly passive and there are 2+ callers I ALWAYS raise any Ax on the button if there is no raise before me. The reasons I do this is because it exaggerates the strength of my ace if an ace hits the flop, setting up a flop bet to win the pot outright. Secondly if your 4 flush hits on the flop the free card raise has been set up beautifully, since people will figure you for AA or KK if you raised pre-flop and raised or bet on the flop. I also do it becomes sometimes you will flop a monster, such as a nut straight or sometimes you even get a set with your x card. The point is that when you flop these monsters people are more inclined to pay you off on the button figuring you're trying to protect a pocket pair, or that you're just making a position bet. If you flop nothing and raised before the flop you can usually either take the free turn card or bet the flop and hopefully take the free river card. | ||
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| Re: Starting requirements for A-x suited, mongi, 6. Jun 2003 12:06 | ||
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| In loose passive game I play A-X from any position. In tighter games I will play A-9suited or better from early position. Is this too loose in a tighter more aggressive game? | ||
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