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Server Time: 2/10/2012 8:54:45 PM PACIFIC |
 SHORT-HANDED STRATEGY, jake-free, 1. May 2003 02:57 | ||
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| PREFLOP: STARTING HANDS SHORT-HANDED LIMIT HOLDEM. EARLY : AA,KK,QQ,JJ,TT, 99 , 88 , 77 AK,AQ,AJ,AT, A9s,A8s,A7s,A6s,A5s,A4s,A3s,A2s KQ,KJ,KT,K9s,K8s QJ,QT,Q9s JT, J9s T9s LATE: A8,A7 K9, K8 Q9 J9 T9 PREFLOP PLAY: RAISE THE BLINDS DEFEND YOUR BLINDS-CALL OR RERAISE HOLDING-----AA,KK,QQ, JJ ,TT ,99,88 AK,AQ,AJs,ATs KQs PLAY ON THE FLOP: IF YOU MISSED---BET/RAISE HOLDING: AK,AQ,AJ,AT. IF YOU ARE RAISED------FOLD . HEADS-UP ON THE FLOP: IF YOU FLOPED--OPEN-ENDED STRAIGHT OR FOUR-FLUSH----BET. IF YOU FLOPED A GOOD HAND EVEN TOP-PAIR---CHECK-RAISE. IF YOU FLOPED A MIDDLE PAIR WITH ACE KICKER-----BET. PLAY ON THE TURN: KEEP ON BETTING. IF IT IS CHECKED TO YOU AND YOU HAVE GOT NOTHING---BET,TAKE A FREE CARD AND BLUFF ON THE RIVER. jake | ||
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| Re: SHORT-HANDED STRATEGY, Mike Caro, 1. May 2003 03:57 | ||
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| Hi, Jake -- What you presented (below) are interesting guidelines, worthy of discussion. I'll be eager to read what others have to say, too. To be versatile, a short-handed strategy could include subdivisions, such as small blind versus big blind, button against the blinds, big blind defense against each position attacking, and many more. All these require different standards. And let's keep in mind that there's a lot of difference between a two-handed game and a three-handed one, and even significant differences between three-handed, four-handed, and up to seven-handed games (all usually considered "short-handed"). One other thing: I believe that it's very important to vary your call-raise-fold decisions with the same hands in the same situations. Much more than in full-handed games, opponents are conscious of (and will adapt to) how you play, because you're competing for many more pots together. Straight Flushes, Mike Caro on 1. May 2003 02:57 jake-free wrote: > PREFLOP: STARTING HANDS SHORT-HANDED LIMIT HOLDEM. > > EARLY : > > > AA,KK,QQ,JJ,TT, 99 , 88 , 77 > AK,AQ,AJ,AT, A9s,A8s,A7s,A6s,A5s,A4s,A3s,A2s > KQ,KJ,KT,K9s,K8s > QJ,QT,Q9s > JT, J9s > T9s > LATE: > > A8,A7 > K9, K8 > Q9 > J9 > T9 > PREFLOP PLAY: > > RAISE THE BLINDS > DEFEND YOUR BLINDS-CALL > OR RERAISE HOLDING-----AA,KK,QQ, JJ ,TT ,99,88 > > AK,AQ,AJs,ATs > KQs > PLAY ON THE FLOP: > IF YOU MISSED---BET/RAISE HOLDING: AK,AQ,AJ,AT. > IF YOU ARE RAISED------FOLD . > > HEADS-UP ON THE FLOP: > IF YOU FLOPED--OPEN-ENDED STRAIGHT OR FOUR-FLUSH----BET. > IF YOU FLOPED A GOOD HAND EVEN TOP-PAIR---CHECK-RAISE. > IF YOU FLOPED A MIDDLE PAIR WITH ACE KICKER-----BET. > > PLAY ON THE TURN: > > KEEP ON BETTING. > IF IT IS CHECKED TO YOU AND YOU HAVE GOT NOTHING---BET,TAKE A FREE CARD AND > BLUFF ON THE RIVER. > jake > | ||
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| Significant differences, Mike?, Easy E, 1. May 2003 06:06 | ||
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| I've always tended to lump 3-4 handed together, 5-6 handed and 7+... | ||
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| Re: SHORT-HANDED STRATEGY, Schuster, 1. May 2003 04:23 | ||
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| Random thoughts from progressing beginner... My experience at shorthanded games is probably less than most, but I do find your starting requirements to be pretty tight. Obviously, the play will vary greatly depending on how many people there are in the game. With 5 or less people in the game, I will usually play any ace on the button, and pairs down to 55, depending on who has entered the pot so far, of course. I've also found the suited connectors down to 7 8 to be worth playing in late position, and definately worth defending a blind with. I have found, as Mr. Caro noted, that varying your play is a lot more important. I normally play low limit full games, and players are willing to pay you off if you play ABC the whole way. If you fold anything worse top pair in a short handed game every time, you're asking for a bullseye on your head, I think. I also feel (although I surely could be wrong here) that you are put into a lot more situations where you have to either raise or fold, but definately not call. People are much more willing to bet middle pair, or bluff the flop entirely in the shorthanded (low limit) games I have played in. Don't let them catch a card that will beat the hand that you have for "free" by not raising them when you do have something. The texture of the player is a lot more important too. If a player will consistently try to run others out of pots, maybe you shouldn't raise them on the flop when you pair your ace or king. Let them keep on betting; take time with your calls as if you're really laboring the decision. I think a lot of players bluff too much whenever the game is short-shorthanded (3 or less). I usually only do this when I would consider myself to have a strong hand if the game were full - you need to make sure they aren't going to draw out on you while bluffing at you! One last thing, at the low limit games at least, you can make many more value bets than you normally would on the river if you have not overly revealed your hand. Think about how the hand has progressed, but usually, I find that top pair is worth a value bet because the same players that try to run over too many pots will fear you are doing the same and call you with 2nd pair, or sometimes worse. Be careful each of players style more in a shorthanded game. Hope this all makes sense. I'm eager to hear other players comments; there aren't many topics on shorthanded play. Lee | ||
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