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Server Time: 12/3/2008 8:40:16 PM PACIFIC |
 triple draw hand, snakehead, 17. Nov 2002 19:51 | ||
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| 150-300 2-7. before any draws, utg raises, next player reraises, I am dealt a pat 876 on the button and I cap it. all fold except the original reraiser. he draws 2 and checks. I bet, he calls. he draws 1 and checks. I bet, he raises. I call. he stands pat, I throw away the 8 and draw 1. he bets, I catch a brick and fold. this is not an uncommon situation when you stand pat on an 8. I am wondering if I should have just stayed and called him down with my 8, if I should have drawn 2 to the 7, if I should have drawn to a 7 from the start, or should I have just folded when he check raised me? | ||
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| Re: triple draw hand, Tony Popejoy, 19. Nov 2002 17:48 | ||
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| Draw one to the seven. Tony Popejoy | ||
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| Re: triple draw hand, snakehead, 20. Nov 2002 02:48 | ||
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| in other words, you think I make the right play? do you think I was getting the right price to break my hand and draw again? | ||
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| Re: triple draw hand (long), Jim Rankin, 20. Nov 2002 14:54 | ||
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| I think Tony is saying you should have broken the 8 at the first draw, and drawn one each time (unless you make the 7 on one of the first two). If you break and draw on the end, you are a big dog to make a 7 (ranging from about a 5-1 dog to a 22-1 dog) depending on which cards you have with the 876 and how many of your cards are dead. And don't forget he may be bluffing :-). I'm not so sure that makes mathematical sense to draw at all, though I can see the comfort value of making a seven versus gritting your teeth and staying with the 8 through the river. I'll be interested in folk's comments on my reasoning. I made a rough assumption that the betting would go about the same way, so you'd be putting in about $1350, to win about $2250 of the other player's money assuming you got two bets from him on the river. Let's call that 1.7 to 1 money odds. If your 876 has the 5-2 or 4-2 with it you have 8 nominal outs with three cracks at it, so you'd be a little better than even money, but you probably should assume at least a couple of your cards are dead in other player hands, so let's say you have six outs, making you about a 1.6-1 dog to hit. That would seem to make it marginally profitable to draw. But if three of your cards are dead, leaving 5 outs, you go to a 2-1 dog and should probably have stayed with the 8. All in all I'd probably stick with the 8 here. If on the other hand the 876 has the 53 or 43 with it, you started with 4 nominal outs (3-1 dog) but if a couple of cards are dead you have 2 outs ( 7-1 dog). So in these two cases it would seem unprofitable to draw at it. | ||
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| Re: triple draw hand (long), Tony Popejoy, 20. Nov 2002 15:28 | ||
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| I believe the correct play is to draw one in my opinion. If you make an eight on the first or second draw, I would at that point stay pat. One thing to remember is hte fact that you have position, which is everything in lowball. Tony Popejoy | ||
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| Re: triple draw hand (long), Jim Rankin, 21. Nov 2002 07:24 | ||
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| Tony, I have played some no limit double draw, and in that game I would draw down to a smooth drawing hand rather than potentially go broke with a marginal pat hand, but I thought it might be different in a limit game like this one, particularly 2-7, where an 8-7 is not like an 8-7 in A-5. Since I've never played even one hand of this triple draw game, and I'm assuming that you are a regular player and base your opinion on much experience, I would not presume to argue the point. on 20. Nov 2002 15:28 Tony Popejoy wrote: > I believe the correct play is to draw one in my opinion. If you make an eight on the first or > second draw, I would at that point stay pat. One thing to remember is hte fact that you have > position, which is everything in lowball. Tony Popejoy | ||
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